To follow the Greek tradition I cook bacala –salt cod– on March 25 (Annunciation day). But instead of the usual cod fritters that most people prepare, I decided to roll chard leaves around a multi-colored stuffing of fish and vegetables.

Salt cod was called ‘mountain fish,’ or ‘poor people’s fish,’ in Greece because in the old days it was cheap and affordable all over the Mediterranean, even in the remotest villages. Imported from Norway or Iceland it has now become a kind of delicacy, especially the best pieces. In Barcelona’s spectacular Boqueria market there are many different kinds of salted cod, sold already soaked and boned. In Genoa, in the maze of the old Medieval neighborhood I came across this spectacular shop where salted cod was soaking in marble basins! (more…)

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Waste not, want not, and most Mediterranean dishes adhere to this maxim. In fact, many are conceived to make use of any combination of abundant seasonal vegetables, greens and herbs, and they often combine them with eggs or simply bind them with cornmeal to create a substantive, satisfying, and nourishing family dish.

 

One of the most glorious spring dishes is the dark green kuku sabzi (kookoo-ye sabzi or kukuye sabsi), the traditional Iranian New Year’s Day dish. Nowruz –as the Persian New Year is called — marks the Equinox, the first day of spring that we just passed, that unique time of year when day and night are equally split. In her unsurpassed New Book of Middle Eastern Food, Claudia Roden writes that “its greenness is believed to be a symbol of fruitfulness in the coming year, bringing prosperity and happiness.” Kuku sabzi consists of just scallions or tender leeks and herbs – any combination of parsley, dill, mint, coriander, etc. – often with the addition of a few spinach leaves. Ground walnuts and turmeric, or the aromatic Persian spice blend advieh may flavor the dish. Since I am not an expert in old or modern Persian/Iranian dishes I leave the brilliant Samin Nosrat who is certainly much more qualified much more qualified to provide her recipe for kuku sabzi.

 

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This was the second mild winter in a row for us here on Kea, proving the common view that when it is fiercely cold and wet up north, down south it stays mild and mainly dry. After a few good rains in November, January turned up full of sunshine, and February left us hoping for more rain, but in vain. Signs of spring are here, with colorful patches of flowers on the green slopes. In our corner of the world green is the color of winter.

Last November, after about ten years, we drastically pruned the old almond trees. They seemed to like it and in February, during some of our coldest days, they filled with glorious blossoms in different shades of pink and white; the air was carrying the sweet smell and soon bees came buzzing as if it was summer. Now the trees are green with fresh leaves and the flowers have turned to fruit that has started to ripen; the green almonds are still tiny, fuzzy and crunchy-soft inviting us to pick and bite, ready for pickling. Those of you who will join us this year will taste them, probably at the welcome dinner. (more…)

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Yesterday I harvested the first favas from the garden. I could probably have done it earlier, as a few of the pods were already so large that needed shelling! 

To the freshly harvested fava I added a bag of frozen shelled beans from last year, when I discovered that they were in perfect condition, very easily peeled, as if I had blanched them. At the end of the spring I freeze fresh, tender fava pods as well as shelled fava in zip-top bags so that I can cook fava dishes all year round; but I seldom do. There are always new vegetables and greens every season, so I had almost forgotten these beans… (more…)

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It was love at first bite! A couple of years back I added carob flour to my bread dough — actually I used far too much the first time—but still the deep earthy flavor won me over; and Costas loved the dark brown bread even more…

For me carob’s taste has nothing to do with chocolate for which it is supposed to be a substitute. The brown color of the bread would be, I suppose, similar to one made with cocoa powder, although I have never added cocoa to my yeasted breads; only occasionally I stuff my breads with pieces of bitter chocolate. I am sure the ‘carob chips’ I read about in the Whole Foods blog will be a somewhat strange substitution for chocolate chips, especially the dark, chocolaty ones I use in my baking. Carob is now advertised as ‘a healthy chocolate substitute;’ mind you, I never considered chocolate, especially the bitter kind Costas and I consume, an ‘unhealthy’ food, but maybe others do. Whatever the reason—mine is its flavor–carob is getting quite popular these days. The Whole Foods blog and the sleek website for carob products from Crete is ample proof… (more…)

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