Braised Meat with Artichokes (Aginares me Kreas)

The meat, cooked together with the artichokes, takes on a delicious sweetness that is complemented by the tartness of the lemon juice. In many parts of Greece the sauce is often thickened with egg, making it avgolemono (egg and lemon sauce). But I prefer this much lighter version of the dish, based on the recipe given to me by Claire Ksida, from Chios.

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Claire and her husband, own the tiny Perleas hotel, which they created by restoring an old Genoan villa, beautifully situated among extensive orange and tangerine groves, in Kambos, just outside the island’s capital. Claire prepares the dish for her guests in the spring, with the fresh tender artichokes she grows in her garden. “I have plenty of artichokes so I freeze some because I like to be able to continue making the dish throughout the summer” she told me. (more…)

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Keftedes–Meatballs

There are many recipes for keftedes (plural of kefte). Practically every cook has a unique mixture of ingredients. The following is a combination of recipes from Macedonia and Thrace that I developped for my first book The Foods of Greece . It’s my favorite because the mixture has bulgur and grated zucchini, instead of bread, which make it exceptional. Chef Jim Botsacos of Molyvos restaurant in NYC serves a variation of these keftedes.

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Serves 6 (about 35 pieces) (more…)

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Moschari Lemonato–Veal and Potatoes in Lemon Sauce

This is my mother’s lemonato, the best I have tasted. Although this dish is commonly cooked at home all over Greece, it is rarely included in cookbooks. American veal is different from ours, in that comes from free range animals and, although very tasty, is tough and requires a special cooking method. I have adapted my mother’s recipe for the American and European veal. One of my aunts used to cook the meat with no other liquid but lemon juice, and her version was also delicious. But it had very little syrupy sauce—not enough for cooking the potatoes. I think this is a great disadvantage, because the potatoes are the best part oflemonato. In any case, the secret of this dish’s success is to keep the heat very low and to simmer the veal for hours.

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Serves 4-6 (more…)

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Black-Eyed Pea, Ground Lamb, and Chard Stew

The one-pot meals of the eastern Mediterranean ingeniously combine seasonal vegetables, herbs, and greens with small amounts of meat to create delicious dishes that seem to be designed by a modern nutritionist. 

 

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Photo by Anastasios Mentis.

 
Aifer Unsal calls this stew borani—not to be confused with the vegetable and yogurt salads with the same name in the Middle East. Aifer is an outstanding cook and food writer from the Gaziantep—the part of southern Turkey that borders Syria. Apparently the Turkish term borani is used for various stews and salads. This recipe is my adaptation of Aifer Unsal’s borani, from the book Délices de Turquie, which has been translated into many European languages, including Greek.
 

Makes 4 servings

 

(more…)

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